It's amazing what getting paid and having a bit of money does for your outlook on things! Yesterday was payday- after 8 weeks of living here and scraping by on what I had saved at home. Of course yesterday was also Leopoldi, a holiday for the patron saint of Niederösterreich and Wien (otherwise known as Lower Austria and Vienna), so I had off from school, and was free to shop for some things I've been needing. I also went and bought a new camera- a purple Nikon CoolPix. It was cheap (99 Euro), but also a relatively decent quality, it'll be thoroughly tested this weekend in Prague.

I spent most of Tuesday wandering town, and planning lessons. In my wanderings I stumbled across more huts for the christmas market- which is called the Badner Adventmeile and opens this Friday. I also saw a man selling roasted chestnuts and Bratkartoffel (sautéed potatoes) with a truly glorious Austrian-Mountain-Man mustache. The stands for chestnuts and potatoes are all over town- but such mustaches are not, and if I'd had a working camera with me, and were he not looking at me, I'd have taken a picture to show you the glory. Instead I'll let you admire the lovely facial hair of Kaiser Willhelm I of Germany- his burnstache (as Urban Dictionary labels this facial hair) is nearly the same as that of the man in the stand.

In my wanderings I bought myself two of my favorite treats at the bakery. One is a recently discovered favorite- Linzer Kipferl. It's a U-shaped sandwich cookie where the cookies are a bit like sugar cookies (just not as sweet or buttery as ours) held together by Marillen Marmelade (apricot jam- but it sounds so much better in German), and the ends are dipped in dark chocolate. The other I've known since I was in Graz the first time- and it's also filled with Marillen. They're called Krapfen here, but in Germany they'd be called a Berliner. This should sound somewhat familiar to those of you who remember when J.F.K. said that he was a jelly donut and people in Berlin went wild and wanted to eat him (or was there something else they were happy about?). Krapfen are associated with Fasching (or Karnival) here, which apparently starts on 11/11, as one of my teachers told me. I wasn't aware that Fasching lasted that long, I only know Faschingdienstag- which is known in the US as Fat Tuesday. To celebrate Payday I also went to the Heurige across the street for drinks and dinner with Liz (British) and Steffi (Austrian). It was fun- and once again cheap; I really wish we had Heurige in the states.
It's finally gotten a bit chilly here, Monday was the beginning of the weather change, it was very foggy and never got above 40. Tuesday the sun was out, but it was still cold, and today was even colder (30-32) and incredibly foggy all day. Steffi told Liz and I yesterday that Fall here is usually very foggy, and it has something to do with the thermal fault that runs under the region, which is also the reason why it's good wine country, and also why we have so many spas. Since it was so cold today I decided to wear my new winter coat for the first time. I bought one of those micro-down coats last spring, but I've never had a chance to wear it. It's pretty thin, so I was skeptical about how warm it would actually be, but I'm pretty pleased; I didn't get over-heated (except on the bus- where my seat was practically on top of the heater), but I didn't get cold either. Today felt colder than it really was though, with all the cold moisture in the air it feels cooler, and it's the kind of cold that really sinks into your bones. Needless to say I'm looking forward to the end of the foggy season, Steffi said once we have snow the sun comes back and the fog lifts.
In other news I'm currently reading a book called The Empire of Austria: Its Rise and Present Power by John S.C. Abbott. It was published in 1859, hence the "present power" of the empire, which lasted until 1918 (of course in the last 50 or so years it was known as the Austro-Hungarian Empire). It's quite an interesting book, and it's very well written with language that you don't often see or hear today, but is so formal and eloquent. The books starts with Rhodolph of Hapsburg in 1232, and because it covers so much time there isn't a huge amount of detail, or really specific stories about each ruler and his family, but there's enough to keep you interested. Unfortunately they weren't very creative when it came to names, so there are a lot of Rhodolphs, Alberts, Leopolds, Maximilians and Mattias' to keep up with, with the occasional Fredric, Otho and Ferdinand thrown in to spice things up. There aren't many women mentioned by name thus far, but I'm just getting to the late 1400s- Maria Theresa is yet to come.

A map of Europe in 1850
A large part of why I'm reading this is that I wanted to read more on the history of Austria- and this was the only free (for Kindle) Austrian History book that seemed to be what I wanted. It's turned out quite well, as it's not only interesting, and well written but also unintentionally humorous. Granted it's more of a dark sort of humor, but nonetheless when he writes about people dying (often suddenly) it's written in such a way that I can't help but nearly burst out laughing, there are also other non-death related funny bits too. Here are some examples that I hope you also find amusing:
"With this arrangement Leopold was satisfied, but unfortunately, just at that time, his impetuous spirit, exhausted by disappointment and chagrin, yielded to death. ... His widow, Isabella, the daughter of the King of Arragon, became blind from excessive grief, and soon followed her husband to the tomb." p. 19
"when, in the midst of success, the deposed Emperor Louis fell dead from a stroke of apoplexy, in the year 1347." p. 20
"Burning with vengeance, he traversed Europe almost with the zeal and eloquence of Peter the Hermit" p. 22
"William and Hedwige no sooner met than they loved one another, as young hearts, even in the palace, will sometimes love, as well as in the cottage." p. 24 (she ends up being forced to marry an older man she can't stand and Austria looses the chance to gain control over Poland)
On another (and final) note- In the book the author always writes Hapsburg, but here anything with their name on it is spelled Habsburg, so I looked it up to see what's what. Apparently Hapsburg is the English spelling of the name, and both spellings are acceptable, especially since you pronounce it as a
p whether it's spelled Ha
bsburg or Ha
psburg.