So that's why Pagans have more fun!

Well it's been another lovely weekend here in Austria.  We still don't have snow, and it's still chilly and cloudy- but it's all good.

On Friday I went into Vienna with my friend Liz.  We went shopping at the Naschmartk (a big outdoor market, which is mostly food), around in the city, and also at two of the Kriskindlmaerkte (christmas markets).  Then we went and saw the 4th Twilight movie at the English movie theater.  I didn't go in with very high expectations of the movie, so I wasn't disappointed.  They changed things from the book of course, and some of it they stayed a little too true.  There were some pretty gruesome scenes, and the 10 year olds in the audience were scared out of their wits.

A stall in the Naschmarkt full of fruits, nuts and vegetables.

Some traditional wooden ornaments at a stall in the Museums Quartier Kristkindlmarkt.

The most American display I've seen since the 4th of July, I'm not sure why it's right outside the Rathaus Kristkindlmarkt.

Rathaus Kriskindlmarkt

These big pretzels with all different fillings and toppings seem to be popular this time of year.

Tonight I met up with Liz again and we went to see what Perchten is all about.  Usually the Perchtenlauf (or parade) is put on by a local Perchten organization.  The closest group to Baden is actually from Berndorf, so there's a good chance that some of the people I saw tonight are colleagues or students.  I don't know what all the group does besides get into costume and put on these parades, but the parade was cool enough for me!  I think the best way to describe it is hilariously terrifying.  These people in out-of-this world costumes and masks walk slowly, creepily toward the crowd, swishing their horsehair whips or reaching out to touch the people in the first few rows.  Most of them went toward this group of teenage girls in the front across the aisle from us, but a few came our way too.  Liz was molested by a wolf, and an absolutely enormous Perchten with a nightmare-inducing mask got up in my face (well my face was pretty much in the mouth of his mask) and asked if I was "brav" and at that moment I couldn't remember what that meant- except that it does NOT mean brave.  It means good.  Liz was pretty much screaming at me to "Just say yes", and I was laughing from the absolute absurdity of the situation... and a bit of terror.  We both were hit with whips several times, but they don't really hurt.  I took as many pictures as I could, but my camera was being stupid and slow.  

Even kids are Perchten.

It's hard to even see the face in this mask.

Many of the masks are enormous, I'm not sure how some of the people could see.

Some of them had light up eyes.

This is the Wolf that got Liz.

This one was in the midst of whipping the guy next to me.

Anyway, it was a lot of fun, and an excellent cultural experience.  It seems like it must be the remnants of the Pagan traditions that the church has tried so hard to take over.  I'm surprised that it's still celebrated in such a Catholic country, but I'm glad it's here. 

Tomorrow is the real Krampus, and after I'm done teaching I'm tutoring, so I'll be out and about in the streets of Baden to see what happens!

For more pictures click here!